A royal salute
With spring comes the usual enthusiasm and fervor of celebration and joy as a line up of customary festivals and fairs await the lively vacationers and keyed up local folk of Jaipur. Join me on a journey of a lifetime as he decides to get up, close and personal with the royal pink city…
The brawny folk men dressed in crisp white sherwanis masterfully play the dholak (a solid drum) and the colorfully embroidered ghagra clad women play perfect accomplices, harmonizing their steps cautiously to beat, balancing seven brightly colored terracotta pots on their veiled heads, each with a lamp within. In the corner the overpowering aroma of the Daal Bati (Spicy lentils with baked balls of wheat and lots of ghee.) fills the end of the bazaar street and the tourists haggle over the outrageously priced trinkets. The skinny mongrels relentlessly trouble the holy cows and the street urchin tries to sway the foreigners into buying him a new pair of shoes. This in not scattered mystical dream that unceremoniously bubbles down to a depressing gray as you wake up to your Monday morning blues. It is a usual afternoon in the enthralling city of Jaipur.
Strategically located in close vicinity of India’s two most inspirational cities – Delhi and Agra, Jaipur appropriately forms with them what is known as the golden triangle of India’s culture, heritage, and traditions. Once home to India’s most flamboyant royalty, Jaipur truly epitomizes the regality of the valiant Rajput (Royal) traditions that still manifest themselves through the dazzling architectural beauty of its massive forts, palaces, gardens and chambers. While the new division of the city is a busy business quarter with modern buildings, banks and offices, it is the old district that exudes some splendid old world charm.
The old town part which once clad itself into autumn pink to welcome Prince Albert and Queen Elizabeth II in 1876 is now the heart of the city. Amidst the rugged forts, wide tree lined avenues, parched barren hills and elaborate palaces lies the bustling street bazaar with its traditional Rajputana jewelry, elaborate Rajasthani handicrafts, handlooms and artifacts, gorgeously crafted textiles, silk durries, batik and tie and dyes, silver trinkets, precious stones and much more. Food vendors abound the street side corners selling chilled Matka Kulfi (Creamy homemade ice-cream). 15 different flavors – 15p each! Almond, pistachio, saffron, malai, rose and mango seem to be the most popular ones.
In the next ally, the sole old restaurant offers a truly traditional Rajasthani fare. The elaborate ‘Bank of India’ calendar with a bejeweled Lord Rama portrait makes for a wonderful contrast to the aging soot covered walls. The old wooden benches make a loud creaking sound when you move. But the smell of the food arriving in the old aluminum platters fills the air and brings a twinkle in the eyes of the hungry guests (In Rajasthan they are never referred to as customers). Today is a feast! Dal Batti Churma, Ghewar (A gram flour sweet dish), Rajasthani Subji (Spicy curried vegetables), Mawa Kachori (deep fried croquettes with tamarind chutney) and Roti - £1 for unlimited refills.
If food fuels an appetite for some much anticipated sightseeing the City Palace which is within walking distance is an imposing blend of Rajasthani and Moghul architecture. Spacious courtyards, engrossingly painted ceilings, marble columns, ornate motifs in gold and beautifully carved monumental arches. Half of the city palace is still occupied by the royal family, while the other half houses a museum with a wonderful collection of Rajasthani swords, jewels and weaponry. The Diwan – e – Aam is an art gallery showcasing ancient manuscripts and rare miniature paintings. If luck confers, you might just see the palace peacock showing off its beauty.
The Hawa Mahal (Literally meaning the Castle of the winds) which adjoins the City Palace is beautiful example of detailed Rajputana architecture. The 5 storied pyramid shaped building is intricately carved in a rich red limestone with a number of tiny windows and screened balconies that were once used by the women of the royal families to observe festivities and processions on the streets.
About 11 kilometers and a lakeside drive away from the city, stands manifestly the gigantic Amer fort that completely overwhelms you with its sheer size. Built in traditional pink sandstone and intricately carved marble, Amer is home to the renowned Sheesh Mahal – an atrium done up entirely with mirrors and precious stones and patterned with beautiful stained glass designs. At a steep elevation, this citadel can be reached by riding on an elephant or climbing the long meandering stairways. Once on top, it offers spectacular views of the city and the Maota Lake with the pristine Jal Mahal (The Lake Palace) floating in the center. At sunset the town gets intensely stained in mellow amber, with the distant pink houses looking like small drops of fire.
Jaipur is also home to the impressive Sisodia Rani Ka Baug (The Royal Gardens), aesthetically laid in a Mughal style with massive fountains, and long patterned flowerbeds, elegant pavilions and exotic murals of gods and goddesses. These gardens were once a summer retreat for the palace ladies.
Among the other attractions of Jaipur include the Jantar Mantar – a royal observatory built by built by Sawai Jai Singh, the leading astronomer of his times and the founder of Jaipur and many more forts and palaces like the Jaigarh and Nahargarh forts. Rambaug palace is one of the many palaces that have been converted into hotels after the collapse of the monarchs in India. Set amidst 47 acres of exotic flora, mosaic swimming pools and ornate mughal gardens, this resplendent palace is an epitome of luxury and opulence, a place where you can slumber in the king’s suite, with its oriental hangings, ancient trophies and swinging chandeliers.
But if you want to experience how the affluent Jaipuris once lived, Alsisar Haweli, tucked away in the heart of the pink district is a fine illustration of traditional opulence and grandeur that the Thakurs (Landlords) of Jaipur were once used to. Beautifully refurbished with antique furniture, medieval Rajasthani fabrics and silks, this is one of the many Hawelis that has recently been renovated for guests and offers a truly unique experience.
Spring brings about festivity and celebration as many local fairs and festivals liven up this vibrant town annually. During Gangur, a fortnight after the colorful festival of Holi, women dress up in elaborate traditional costumes and exotic village jewelry to offer prayers to Lord Shiva and goddess Gauri for marital bliss. In the evening, processions with decked out horses, ornamented elephants and silver palanquins move through the city. Brightly clad women and men dance to folk music while children help themselves to infinite amounts of Ghewer. The deity is taken to the palace gates and the newly wed brides observe fasts and rituals for 18 days consecutively after the festivities come to an end.
Among the other important festivals which follow Gangur are the elephant festival, the kite festival and Teej, which commemorates the arrival of monsoons. During Teej, the dramatic countryside, with miles and miles of lime green fields comes alive and lovers from neighboring villages assemble singing and dancing on bullock carts and camels. Women dress in their Teej finery, a special variety of cloth called ‘Sanander’ which is a mellow shade of pastel blue. Like the Gangur tradition during Teej as well, the ceremonial Teej Mata (Goddess) is led through a traditional procession mounted on the customary palanquin 'Takht-e-rawan' and thousands of villagers from far and away gather in Jaipur to participate in the festivities.
The magic of Jaipur never fails to surprise. Within the chaos of the bazaars is an absolute sense of order. Within the grandeur of the palaces is a supreme sense of dignity and through the echoing sounds of the folk tunes appears the endearing kindness of the local folk. Jaipur truly epitomizes the matchless dignity of Indian culture and traditions. ‘Atithi Devo Bhava’ a teaching in ancient scriptures which means ‘your guest is your god’ is justly put in practice in this warm city, where the simple desert folk are so affable to the tourists with their welcoming hospitality and genuine warmth.
As the train thrusts the city behind and the dull pink houses fade into the horizon, the memories of the rich colors, the timeless grace of the ancient dance forms, the exquisiteness of the rich architecture and the graciousness of the locals linger on in one’s memory long after!
The brawny folk men dressed in crisp white sherwanis masterfully play the dholak (a solid drum) and the colorfully embroidered ghagra clad women play perfect accomplices, harmonizing their steps cautiously to beat, balancing seven brightly colored terracotta pots on their veiled heads, each with a lamp within. In the corner the overpowering aroma of the Daal Bati (Spicy lentils with baked balls of wheat and lots of ghee.) fills the end of the bazaar street and the tourists haggle over the outrageously priced trinkets. The skinny mongrels relentlessly trouble the holy cows and the street urchin tries to sway the foreigners into buying him a new pair of shoes. This in not scattered mystical dream that unceremoniously bubbles down to a depressing gray as you wake up to your Monday morning blues. It is a usual afternoon in the enthralling city of Jaipur.
Strategically located in close vicinity of India’s two most inspirational cities – Delhi and Agra, Jaipur appropriately forms with them what is known as the golden triangle of India’s culture, heritage, and traditions. Once home to India’s most flamboyant royalty, Jaipur truly epitomizes the regality of the valiant Rajput (Royal) traditions that still manifest themselves through the dazzling architectural beauty of its massive forts, palaces, gardens and chambers. While the new division of the city is a busy business quarter with modern buildings, banks and offices, it is the old district that exudes some splendid old world charm.
The old town part which once clad itself into autumn pink to welcome Prince Albert and Queen Elizabeth II in 1876 is now the heart of the city. Amidst the rugged forts, wide tree lined avenues, parched barren hills and elaborate palaces lies the bustling street bazaar with its traditional Rajputana jewelry, elaborate Rajasthani handicrafts, handlooms and artifacts, gorgeously crafted textiles, silk durries, batik and tie and dyes, silver trinkets, precious stones and much more. Food vendors abound the street side corners selling chilled Matka Kulfi (Creamy homemade ice-cream). 15 different flavors – 15p each! Almond, pistachio, saffron, malai, rose and mango seem to be the most popular ones.
In the next ally, the sole old restaurant offers a truly traditional Rajasthani fare. The elaborate ‘Bank of India’ calendar with a bejeweled Lord Rama portrait makes for a wonderful contrast to the aging soot covered walls. The old wooden benches make a loud creaking sound when you move. But the smell of the food arriving in the old aluminum platters fills the air and brings a twinkle in the eyes of the hungry guests (In Rajasthan they are never referred to as customers). Today is a feast! Dal Batti Churma, Ghewar (A gram flour sweet dish), Rajasthani Subji (Spicy curried vegetables), Mawa Kachori (deep fried croquettes with tamarind chutney) and Roti - £1 for unlimited refills.
If food fuels an appetite for some much anticipated sightseeing the City Palace which is within walking distance is an imposing blend of Rajasthani and Moghul architecture. Spacious courtyards, engrossingly painted ceilings, marble columns, ornate motifs in gold and beautifully carved monumental arches. Half of the city palace is still occupied by the royal family, while the other half houses a museum with a wonderful collection of Rajasthani swords, jewels and weaponry. The Diwan – e – Aam is an art gallery showcasing ancient manuscripts and rare miniature paintings. If luck confers, you might just see the palace peacock showing off its beauty.
The Hawa Mahal (Literally meaning the Castle of the winds) which adjoins the City Palace is beautiful example of detailed Rajputana architecture. The 5 storied pyramid shaped building is intricately carved in a rich red limestone with a number of tiny windows and screened balconies that were once used by the women of the royal families to observe festivities and processions on the streets.
About 11 kilometers and a lakeside drive away from the city, stands manifestly the gigantic Amer fort that completely overwhelms you with its sheer size. Built in traditional pink sandstone and intricately carved marble, Amer is home to the renowned Sheesh Mahal – an atrium done up entirely with mirrors and precious stones and patterned with beautiful stained glass designs. At a steep elevation, this citadel can be reached by riding on an elephant or climbing the long meandering stairways. Once on top, it offers spectacular views of the city and the Maota Lake with the pristine Jal Mahal (The Lake Palace) floating in the center. At sunset the town gets intensely stained in mellow amber, with the distant pink houses looking like small drops of fire.
Jaipur is also home to the impressive Sisodia Rani Ka Baug (The Royal Gardens), aesthetically laid in a Mughal style with massive fountains, and long patterned flowerbeds, elegant pavilions and exotic murals of gods and goddesses. These gardens were once a summer retreat for the palace ladies.
Among the other attractions of Jaipur include the Jantar Mantar – a royal observatory built by built by Sawai Jai Singh, the leading astronomer of his times and the founder of Jaipur and many more forts and palaces like the Jaigarh and Nahargarh forts. Rambaug palace is one of the many palaces that have been converted into hotels after the collapse of the monarchs in India. Set amidst 47 acres of exotic flora, mosaic swimming pools and ornate mughal gardens, this resplendent palace is an epitome of luxury and opulence, a place where you can slumber in the king’s suite, with its oriental hangings, ancient trophies and swinging chandeliers.
But if you want to experience how the affluent Jaipuris once lived, Alsisar Haweli, tucked away in the heart of the pink district is a fine illustration of traditional opulence and grandeur that the Thakurs (Landlords) of Jaipur were once used to. Beautifully refurbished with antique furniture, medieval Rajasthani fabrics and silks, this is one of the many Hawelis that has recently been renovated for guests and offers a truly unique experience.
Spring brings about festivity and celebration as many local fairs and festivals liven up this vibrant town annually. During Gangur, a fortnight after the colorful festival of Holi, women dress up in elaborate traditional costumes and exotic village jewelry to offer prayers to Lord Shiva and goddess Gauri for marital bliss. In the evening, processions with decked out horses, ornamented elephants and silver palanquins move through the city. Brightly clad women and men dance to folk music while children help themselves to infinite amounts of Ghewer. The deity is taken to the palace gates and the newly wed brides observe fasts and rituals for 18 days consecutively after the festivities come to an end.
Among the other important festivals which follow Gangur are the elephant festival, the kite festival and Teej, which commemorates the arrival of monsoons. During Teej, the dramatic countryside, with miles and miles of lime green fields comes alive and lovers from neighboring villages assemble singing and dancing on bullock carts and camels. Women dress in their Teej finery, a special variety of cloth called ‘Sanander’ which is a mellow shade of pastel blue. Like the Gangur tradition during Teej as well, the ceremonial Teej Mata (Goddess) is led through a traditional procession mounted on the customary palanquin 'Takht-e-rawan' and thousands of villagers from far and away gather in Jaipur to participate in the festivities.
The magic of Jaipur never fails to surprise. Within the chaos of the bazaars is an absolute sense of order. Within the grandeur of the palaces is a supreme sense of dignity and through the echoing sounds of the folk tunes appears the endearing kindness of the local folk. Jaipur truly epitomizes the matchless dignity of Indian culture and traditions. ‘Atithi Devo Bhava’ a teaching in ancient scriptures which means ‘your guest is your god’ is justly put in practice in this warm city, where the simple desert folk are so affable to the tourists with their welcoming hospitality and genuine warmth.
As the train thrusts the city behind and the dull pink houses fade into the horizon, the memories of the rich colors, the timeless grace of the ancient dance forms, the exquisiteness of the rich architecture and the graciousness of the locals linger on in one’s memory long after!