Through Buddha’s footsteps…

Nearly 25 centuries ago, in the ancient Himalayan kingdom of Kapilavastu, queen Mahamaya gave birth to her illustrious son Siddhartha Gautama. The prince, after years of intense meditation attained the divine state of Nirvana. From then on he was known as the ‘Buddha’ or ‘Enlightened one’. Today the allure of Buddhism has spread throughout the world, with an estimated 360 million Buddhists around the globe. Sadly until now the Buddhist sites in India had been in a heartbreaking state of decay, depriving tourists of the most important milestones of Buddhist heritage. But with the Indian government recently giving these sites a much needed face lift a journey through the four landmark Buddhist pilgrimage destinations in India and Nepal would be a great idea!

Travelling in the Buddha’s footsteps, through the fertile Ganges valley of Northern India and Nepal can be an extraordinary journey of revelation and surprise. As modern India tends towards brazen materialism and establishment, a few hours into the heart of the country, and things have largely remained unchanged through the centuries. Lumbini in Nepal, and Bihar and Uttar Pradesh in Northern India are home to the world’s most significant Buddhist sites, illustrating Buddha’s birth, enlightenment, his first teachings and his death. A journey through these mystical seats is a must for culturists and ardent followers of Buddhism as Siddhartha himself urged his followers to visit them.

Lumbini – The Birth
Lumbini is unmistakably a Mecca for Buddhists. Located in the footsteps of the mesmerizing Himalayas in southern Nepal, this is where queen Mahamaya gave birth to the young Siddhartha. Just a short distance from the ancient Shakya capital of Kapilavastu, Lumbini, the beauty of which is described in ancient Sanskrit and Pali literature evokes a profound sentiment of sanctity and peace. Amongst the many places of interest is The Asoka pillar, the first epigraphic evidence of Buddha’s existence. The inscriptions on the pillar in the Brahmi script roughly reads: Kin Piyadesi beloved of the Gods, having been anointed 20 yeas, came himself and worshipped saying Here Buddha Shakyamuni was born: And he caused to make a stone (capital) representing a horse; and he caused (this) stone pillar to be erected. Because the worshipful one was born in the village of Lumbini has been made free of taxes and recipient of wealth".

South of the Asoka pillar is the sacred pool of Puskarni, where the queen took a dip before giving birth to the baby. It is also believed to be the holy pond where the Buddha was given his first purification bath. Another prominent landmark just around the bend is The Maya Devi temple, a burnt brick pagoda like structure where the famous Nativity sculpture was installed in 4th century AD. This is believed to be the exact birth spot of the Buddha. The temple was developed into a shrine as early as 3rd century BC. Just 27 kilometres west of Lumbini and you are in the ruins of the ancient kingdom of Kapilavastu where the Buddha spent his first 29 years. The puzzling relics and mounds of the stupas and monasteries at Kapilavastu add a unique sense of inquest to your Lumbini experience.

Bodhgaya – Enlightenment
Further south from Lumbini and about 200 kilometres from Patna in India lies the small village of Bodhgaya, where the Buddha attained supreme enlightenment. This probably is one of the most sacred Buddhist places, as it is in Bodhgaya where Buddhism really began. Bodhgaya, despite being thronged by global tourists is still essentially a quiet little village on the banks of the river Phalgu, a village where the under the shade of the Bodhi tree, you feel the serenity of the leaves wash you clear of your sins. A village where the rhythmic chanting of the Saffron clad monks lingers in your ears long after you’ve left the place. According to scriptures, it is in Bodhgaya that Buddha took a seat under the Peepal (Bodhi) tree and resolved not to get up, until he attained enlightenment. The Buddha continued to meditate under the tree for seven days after enlightenment. The descendent of the tree is now located in the sprawling complex of the Mahabodhi Temple, founded by the emperor Ashoka. This historical temple is 170 feet tall and it beautifully rises to form a slender stone pyramid that is elaborately carved and engraved. The inside of the temple houses a massive 1700 year old image of the Buddha in ‘the touching of the ground’ pose. Even today Bodhgaya is known to be a place vibrant enough to awaken the potential of enlightenment, enriched by years of intense devotion and prayers by devotees.

Sarnath – The first sermon
After having attained enlightenment in Bodhgaya, the Buddha gave his first sermon about attaining nirvana in Sarnath, just a 10 kilometre rickshaw ride from the holy city of Varanasi – a pilgrimage centre to millions of Hindus around the world. Sarnath was where the Buddha found his first five disciples, where he gave his first discourse to set in motion the wheel of Dharma, where the monastic tradition of life flourished. Sarnath is deeply significant to the origins of the Buddhist philosophy. Ruled by emperor Ashoka in 4th century BC, Sarnath became an important centre for Buddhism and the emperor erected a massive column with four lions signifying his majestic rule and Buddha’s affiliation to the place. The column, which is also the emblem of the modern Indian republic, is now preserved in the Museum of Archaeology.

Amongst the most conspicuous of stupas (the earliest Buddhist monument) in Sarnath is the Dhameka Stupa, which is covered with stunningly carved stones in varied geometrical patterns of Swastikas, and lotus garlands running over and below the Swastikas. The Dhameka is the sacred site where the voice of the Buddha was first heard – the place he delivered his first sermon. Chaukhandi is the other historic Stupa in Sarnath. The remains of this ancient structure can be seen as you approach Sarnath from Varanasi. The other Buddhist attractions in Sarnath include a Chinese temple housing a beautiful marble statue of a Buddha, and a Tibetan monetary where you can hear the monks tenderly chanting 'Om mani padme hum' in the early hours of the morning.

A trip to Sarnath however is not complete without a journey to the revered spiritual capital of Varanasi. Also known as Baneras, this unique town is a blend of ancient Hindu culture, remarkable architecture and exquisite traditions that have remained untouched by the tunnels of time. Thousands of pilgrims – rich and poor, from faraway lands flock Varanasi to offer their prayers and take holy dips in the Ganges. The timeless Ghats overlooking the legendary river offer splendid views of the sunrise. Time stands still, only to be broken by the silhouettes of the fishermen creating gentle ripples as they pull their canoes into the water. But as the locals gather for their early morning baths it’s time to stride toward Vishwanath Gully for a piping cup of Masala Chai and freshly fried Samosas and then northward through the steep valley of the Ganges to Kusinara.

Kusinara – The final hour
The Buddha’s last days passed without self possession or thought of death in the tiny village of Kusinara, on the Nepal – India border. He was believed to have entered the meditational state of Mahaparinirvana (the great passing away) on a full moon night in Vaisakha (April – May). Today thousands flank the Mahaparinirvana Stupa – the exact place where the Buddha left his body. The building, which is made in a half dome design, has a reclining Buddha image demonstrating his passing. The tranquil surroundings of the Stupa abound with ruins and ancient monasteries that are being excavated. The red earth creates a surprising contrast to the prominent whitewash of the Stupa, lending the place a unique ambience.

About a mile ahead is the massive old brick Ramabhar Tila (or Angara Chaitya), a mountainous structure that is said to mark the spot where the Buddha’s body was cremated. The bottom of this Tila can be reached even today and you can still see the parched earth. Kusinara also has ample Burmese and Japanese monasteries and a strikingly ornate Thai temple awarding a greatly devout feeling to the place.

Kusinara marks the end of the Buddha’s days on earth, and also of a sacred pilgrimage that stays in one’s memory and thought long after. It certainly instils in you a conviction, a resilience for change, a thirst for introspection! Maybe your personal enlightenment in not quite on the way, but as the Buddha said to his disciples – ‘strive on with diligence’.